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Tool

Gauge calculator

Count the stitches and rows across a washed swatch and the calculator gives your gauge, says which way to change needles to match a pattern, and turns a width into a cast-on at the gauge you actually have.

Your washed swatch

Count the stitches across the middle 4" of a washed, dry swatch — half stitches too — and the rows down it.

Against a pattern

Type the pattern's stitch gauge to see which way to change needles.

Cast on for a width at your gauge

A width in, a stitch count out.

Measure the swatch honestly

Knit at least 6" square, wash and dry it the way the finished piece will be washed, lay it flat without stretching, and count across the middle 4" — including half stitches. The gauge swatch guide is the whole method, including swatching in the round for a project in the round.

How the needle suggestion is worked out

More stitches per 4" than the pattern means your fabric is tighter, so the needle goes up; fewer means down. One needle size moves the count by about one stitch per 4" at worsted weight and about two at fingering, where each size step is a smaller share of the stitch — the calculator scales by the pattern's gauge. Within half a stitch you are on gauge; a wash and a block absorb that. Change the needle, not your hands, and swatch again. The needle size chart has the steps in millimeters.

Rows

A row gauge that is off while the stitch gauge is right is common and usually fine: most patterns give lengths in inches. It matters for a yoke or raglan shaped by row counts, where the stitch gauge wins and the rows are recalculated.

Cast-on for a width

Width in inches times your stitches per inch, rounded to the stitch pattern's multiple if it has one (a 4-stitch rib, a 6-stitch cable) plus any edge stitches. For a hat in the round, use the head circumference less an inch or two of negative ease; for a scarf, the width you want.

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